The History and Legacy of Fishermen’s Flannel Shirts

Long before flannel became a fashion statement, it was a tool of survival.

Since the late 1800s, fishermen along Portugal's Atlantic coast—especially in historic fishing towns like Peniche—relied on medium-weight flannel shirts to face long days at sea.

Warm, breathable and comfortable, the fabric offered the perfect balance between protection and freedom of movement, even when exposed to salt, wind and water spray.

Founding Grandfather João using a tradicional portuguese flannel button shirt

Unlike today's heavy lumberjack flannels, traditional Portuguese fisherman shirts were typically made from 140–180 g/m² brushed cotton flannel. Their lighter weight made them ideal for layering beneath wool vests and oilskin jackets, creating a practical system that kept fishermen warm without restricting movement.

But these shirts represented more than functionality.

They became part of the identity of Portugal's fishing communities—worn while hauling nets, repairing boats and passing maritime knowledge from one generation to the next. Every stain of saltwater and every faded check pattern told a story of life on the Atlantic.

Then came a new generation.

Between the 1960s and the 1980s, surfing began transforming Portugal's coastline. Places like Peniche evolved from traditional fishing ports into internationally recognised surf destinations. Along with the waves came a new culture, and with it, a new appreciation for authentic workwear.

The fisherman flannel shirt left the docks and entered workwear, surf culture and eventually streetwear. What had once been designed purely for function became a timeless icon of coastal style.

Today, many brands reinterpret the Portuguese fisherman shirt as a premium lifestyle garment.

Yet its true origins remain far from fashion runways, as they belong to the fishermen who built their lives on the Atlantic.

At Waterlost, we don't see the flannel shirt as a trend. We see it as a tribute to the men who came before us—to the heritage of Peniche, to the resilience of Portugal's fishing communities, and to the generations whose stories continue to inspire everything we create.

From a past of fishermen to a future of surfers.